ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Renault Winery's Prohibition Loophole


The local landmark managed to stay open 
during Prohibition. And did you know 
Nucky Johnson once worked there?

By Lori Hoffman
Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 0 | Posted Nov. 2, 2011

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Renault celebrating the end of Prohibition in Egg Harbor City, Dec. 4, 1933

Photo by Courtesy of Renault Winery

EGG HARBOR CITY — When you are talking about then and now in the Atlantic City region, Renault Winery has to be near the top of the list in longevity. The oldest continuous commercial winemaker in New Jersey, The House of Renault was founded by Master vintner Louis Nicholas Renault in 1864. Finding a climate and soil similar to that which he knew in France, he decided to settle and establish his own vineyard.


Think about it — our nation was still engaged in the Civil War when Renault first opened its doors in Egg Harbor City. By 1870 he had introduced his New Jersey Champagne. Renault Winery soon won prizes for its wines and became the largest distributor of champagne in the United States.


The Atlantic County city itself, founded mostly by German immigrants, was an important stop for travelers from Philadelphia in the late 19th century since visitors going to Atlantic City had to change trains in Egg Harbor.


A few decades later, Renault was faced with the problem of losing its right to make wine because of a national ban on booze. When Prohibition was instituted with ratification of the Eighteenth Amendment to the Constitution on Jan. 16, 1919, which prohibited the “Manufacture, sale, or transportation of intoxicating liquors within, the importation thereof into, or the exportation thereof from the United States,” it could have been the end of Renault. 


However the winery was able to slip through a loophole in the law.


In 1919, John D’Agostino and family bought the winery and continued to operate it during the 14 years of Prohibition under a special government permit. This permit allowed the production of wines for religious and medicinal purposes. Renault Wine Tonic, which had an alcoholic content of 22 percent, became the chief product and was sold in drug stores throughout the nation. A label warned not to chill the tonic, as it would turn into wine.


Joseph Milza, a former newspaperman, purchased the property in 1977 and part of the appeal was the history. As Milza explains, “The original owners, the Renault family, wanted out of the business [when Prohibition was arriving]. John D’Agostino purchased the property in 1919 and brought with him a permit to make sacramental wines and Renault Wine Tonic. He had planned ahead and was well prepared to keep the business going.”


In essence, churches and snake-oil salesmen helped keep Renault Winery afloat during the era when Nucky Johnson was running his “Boardwalk Empire” 16 miles down the White Horse Pike, so colorfully fictionalized in the hit HBO TV series.


And here’s an intriguing fact: Nucky Johnson was jailed for tax evasion in 1941, and after he was released in 1945, he spent some time working at Renault Winery with his wife Florence. 


“Flo worked in the gift shop at Renault while Nucky was still incarcerated,” says Milza. “And when he got out he worked part-time as a salesman for Renault. He was very good at selling things to people.” 


That was then. This is now. Renault Winery has thrived even in these tough economic times thanks to Milza, who purchased the property during a period of decline. He admits that it was tough to balance expansion of his property while staying within the state restrictions of the Pinelands Commission that regulates construction with an eye to keeping the Pinelands pristine. He had to battle and compromise, but Milza managed to stay within those restrictions and still expand the scope of Renault, first with the Tuscany House Hotel in 2000 and in 2004, with the opening of Vineland Golf at Renault. 


This, combined with the earlier conversion of the Renault restaurant into the Renault’s Gourmet Restaurant and the addition of Joseph’s Restaurant, helped usher in continued prosperity.


Renault Winery retains the quaint charm that has made it so inviting to visitors for generations, enhanced by its colorful history.

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