Tucked away in Somers Point, El Costeño is a new Mexican restaurant worth seeking out.
Co-owner and chef Paulino Eulogio sits in front of a few his fine creations: Seafood a la Paella, Mole Costeño and the Nachos Conteños.
The first thing you’ll notice upon meeting chef/owner Paulino “Pablo” Eulogio of Somers Point’s new El Costeño restaurant are his hands.
More accurately, the burns.
A large swath of the 30-year-old’s left wrist and palm remains gruesomely beet-red from an unfortunate dispute between hot oil and a sauté pan.
For those of us who’ve spent any time at all working in kitchens, this sort of thing is both an occupational hazard as well as a verifiable badge of honor. Being able to withstand pain — especially the unique scorch of burning — is pretty much a requisite skill set for quality cooks. Eulogio’s first venture (El Costeño translates as “The Shore Dweller”) provides an obvious reference to his current locale, but also serves as an accurate homage to his homeland.
Native to the Pacific coast Mexican resort community of Puerto Escondido, he has been working professionally in kitchens in the Atlantic City area since arriving 14 years ago.
The tiny, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it business shares nondescript strip mall space with a Chinese restaurant, but drive slowly down Maryland Avenue between Bay Avenue and Shore Road and you’ll find it.
With seating for 30, customers are afforded plenty of opportunity to interact with the gregarious young chef, who encourages special orders.
His partner is wife Delfina Villavicencio — perhaps the most lyrical name in our local restaurant biz — providing house-made tortillas, sauces, desserts and a half-dozen luscious “agua frescas.” These naturally refreshing beverages include watermelon, cantaloupe, pineapple, tamarind, Jamaican (berry-red, brewed from hibiscus) and horchat, a creamy, but dairy-free froth composed of rice starch, cinnamon and sugar topped with crushed pecans.
Their exotic essences pair nicely with Eulogio’s cuisine, which is both authentically Mexican and distinctly regional. Calling his hometown “the world’s third biggest surfing area, after Hawaii and Australia,” he describes native foods as being Oaxacan, with a seaside influence.
Buried deep in southernmost Mexico, this means prolific use of traditionally sweet items in savory cuisine.
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1. R. Wallace said... on Sep 12, 2012 at 06:49PM
“I LOVE THIS PLACE!!! Right across from Clancy's.”