FOOD & DRINK

Atlantic City Restaurants Gone But Not Forgotten


Shore-era restaurants missed even during the ongoing dining renaissance in the Atlantic City region.


By Frank Gabriel

Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 5 | Posted Nov. 9, 2011

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The former Abe’s Oyster House in A.C.

ATLANTIC CITY — Penning last week’s “Then & Now” dining feature "Hunger for History?"— about some of our region’s most tenured existing eateries — got me to thinking. Specifically, about some fine establishments, which, for one reason or another no longer exist.


While I won’t wax nostalgic on most topics, bygone restaurants are a notable exception. Probably because many of our fondest memories, epic summers spent at the shore, always seemed to have a common element: food. And while Atlantic City, really our entire region, has never experienced a culinary blooming the likes of which we currently enjoy, there are still places we lament losing.


Start in midtown Atlantic City, at good ole Abe’s Oyster House. Situated at 2031 Atlantic Ave., Abe’s was the tonal counterpoint to nearby Dock’s. With a long, narrow, white dining space lined by wooden benches, it afforded casual, inexpensive meals. Unlike Dock’s, Abe’s was strictly seasonal, with serpentine lines on weekends. It opened at another location in town during the 1920s but moved in 1935. Although not exactly certain just when it closed — Internet searches offered no definitive answers — I can remember walking to working lunches here as late as summer 1987. 


On the other side of the monument, heading toward Downbeach, you couldn’t miss The Great Josh’s at 3709 Ventnor Ave. Ironically, the site of this prototypical New York-style (read: Jewish) deli/ice cream parlor has now become a popular halal meat outlet: Urban redevelopment of the new millennium. What Abe’s was to Dock’s, Josh’s might have been to the legendary White House Subs.

Larger in both seating size and menu, Josh’s served all the standard grilled items and cold subs, plus juicy, heaping piles of pastrami and corned beef. You just gotta love a place whose signature sandwich was labeled “The Bellyfiller.”


On Margate’s border with Longport, Melissa Lavin, formerly a fashion executive, opened what became the seminal Jersey shore storefront BYOB, Melissa’s Bistro, in 1989. The funky dining space was dramatic and Parisian, banquettes running the length of one entire wall, multiple skylights above. Lavin’s fare, culled from her globetrotting career, proved a marvel of eclecticism. We can still recall our very first app here: a timbale of perfectly blanched spinach with sundried tomatoes, marinated artichokes and goat cheese topped by a softly poached quail egg.

Lavin’s entrees, like rosemary-crusted rack of lamb and some of the best crab cakes ever, were always accompanied by a cornucopia of vegetables, grains and fruits. Cuisine and plating both well ahead of their time.


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COMMENTS

Comments 1 - 5 of 5
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1. LOVEAC said... on Nov 10, 2011 at 06:11AM

“We miss Paulie's Cooking at Brittney's Cafe in Atlantic City and Zaber's famous buffet.

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2. Eileen Cohen said... on May 29, 2012 at 04:08PM

“The owner was my grand pop's brother as a kid I was feed crab meat by the handful's. I have the best memories of my summer's in Atlantic City.”

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3. CorLupt said... on Jul 4, 2012 at 09:02AM

“I miss ChiChi's Restaraunt in Somers Point. They had the best seafood! Childhood memories. I would give anything to have their deviled clam recipe. The best ever.”

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4. CorLupton said... on Jul 4, 2012 at 09:12AM

“No, really. Where are the cookbooks or at least recipes from ChiChi's, or from the Mulford family (owned Campbell's), and Abe's? You could make money on this. I would certainly buy all of them. Please, please, please. I miss you so!”

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5. Claude Rioux said... on Jul 24, 2012 at 01:48PM

“July 24, 2012

Hello mister Gabriel,

In the 70's up until mid 80's, my father used to eat at Abe's Oyster House whenever he made a trip to Atlantic City. He's about to go back to Atlantic City for the first time in nearly 30 years and he asked me to check if Abe's was still in business (he still has to discover... Internet). I rapidly found the answer in your article. Thanks! Being at it, I tried to find WHEN Abe's has closed for good. I thought you might want to know...

Abe's Oyster House closed for good in May 1995
... and has been demolished a few weeks later, on Friday, July 21

Here's the link :

http://nl.newsbank.com/nl-search/we/Archives?p_product=AC&p_theme=ac&p_action=search&p_maxdocs=200&s_dispstring=(Abe's%20Oyster%20House)%20AND%20date(1995)&p_field_date-0=YMD_date&p_params_date-0=date:B,E&p_text_date-0=1995&p_field_advanced-0=&p_text_advanced-0=(%22Abe's%20Oyster%20House%22)&p_perpage=10&p_sort=YMD_date:D&xcal_useweights=no

Claude Rioux
Montreal, Canada”

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