Atlantic City Weekly

Share this Story:

When you think of a gourmet chef, you probably envision someone who is singularly focused on the taste of the dishes they prepare. But many of the finest chefs in the world also consider themselves to be �€�visual artists when it comes to the presentation of their cuisine. Steve Klawitter, chef at Capriccio inside Resorts Atlantic City, certainly fits into this mold.

"Presentation is everything," he says, "You have to have the presentation in order, because everything appeals to the eye." According to Klawitter, your opinion of the dish starts when the plate is served before you. Quite simply, if you like what you see, you're going to be predisposed to enjoy the taste. The key to setting the stage for an enjoyable dining experience at Capriccio, he adds, is keeping things simple.

"Use the simplest foods, but the freshest ingredients," he says.

Resorts recently announced a new menu for the gourmet Italian restaurant, but what has helped Capriccio garner critical acclaim (it's a perennial top-ratings earner in the respected Zagat Survey) are the things that haven't changed, including the ambiance, the fine service and the spectacular ocean view.

But the changes to the menu shouldn't be given short-shrift when considering an evening at Capriccio. One glance at the menu and repeat diners (there are many) will notice the differences immediately. Half of the offerings have been updated after careful deliberation by Klawitter and his culinary team. "We have taken some of the old [dishes] off and I've replaced them with about 14 new ones," the chef points out. "But we have the classic Ossobuco and the Veal Saltimbocca, which you know seems to be everybody's favorite. Veal Parmigiana is one of our favorites, too."

Thank goodness the Insalata Capriccio ($10), another customer fav, was left unchanged. When I dined at the restaurant recently, this starter got the meal off to a fantastic start with its mix of fresh greens and a pesto vinaigrette dressing that was tangy, yet not overpowering.

A sampling of Antipasti (appetizers) was highlighted by the Calamari Fritti ($12), served with Italian long hot peppers, and by the Gamberoni Freddi ($22, shrimp and crabmeat), both served in portions large enough to spoil the most robust appetite.

Since my dining experience was part of a media event held to showcase the new menu, I had the opportunity to discuss the menu changes with Klawitter, who worked his way up through the ranks over 13 years at Resorts after graduating from Atlantic Cape Community College's Academy of Culinary Arts.

When queried about his favorite menu item at Capriccio, Klawitter doesn't hesitate. "The one I like the most is our Ossobuco, our signature dish here," he says. His description of the preparation of the Ossobuco Alla Milanese ($45) paints a picture of this labor of love. "It's the veal hind shank, approximately two pounds. It has the bone. We braze it for five hours -- slow braze. We use three bottles of wine with fresh herbs, all fresh vegetables. And it's served with our Saffron Risotto ... It takes a lot of time to make it."

After hearing Klawitter discuss the Ossobuco, it took all the restraint I could muster NOT to order it. After all, I was here to review the new menu items. So Klawitter recommended the Occhiata Grigliata (pictured on next page), a grilled black bass with passion fruit, green peppercorn sauce and hazelnut risotto ($34). If they had a powerful telescope on the deck in front of Capriccio, you could watch the fisherman catch the bass used in this dish, just seven miles out to sea. The dish was excellent and the favors of the passion fruit, the sauce and the risotto complemented one another very nicely.

Two other additions to the menu include Occhiata Cilena Piccante, which is pan-fried Chilean sea bass, caper berries, lemon segments, tumeric butter and wine sauce ($32); and Pesce Spada Grigliato Alla Siciliana, which is grilled swordfish, Sicilian-style calamari, currents, caper berries, pine nuts and crushed red pepper in a light tomato sauce over Grandinina pasta ($32).

For Klawitter, the most satisfying thing about his job is having the opportunity to interact with Capriccio's customers. "[Sometimes] we get them to try new things. If it brings a smile to their face when they come here and have the ocean view and everything is set perfect for them. That's what's gratifying for me."

Capriccio is open for dinner Thurs. - Mon. 6-11pm, and located on Resorts' dining level. Open for Sunday brunch, 10am-2pm. Reservations are recommended. 1-800-932-0734. The Bistro Menu is available Friday and Saturday nights from 6pm-2am.