Atlantic City Weekly

Some restaurants just seem to change hands over and over. I have lived here for six years, and have seen at least three eateries in the Margate venue now operating as La Fontana Ristorante. The sister restaurant of La Fontana del Mare in Strathmere, which closes in winter, is open all year. Owners Fausto Berardi and Tonio Galdi strive to serve fine Italian food in a lovely atmosphere. The result is a warm, friendly ristorante that serves very good food.

La Fontana opened earlier this year and had a very busy summer season. I ate there in July, and the singing servers, bursting into either opera or show music at any time, were one of the draws during the summer. The hostess informed me that they are possibly planning on reintroducing the music later this year around the holidays.

The restaurant is actually comprised of three separate rooms. The middle section is like a reception area for waiting, and they have kept the original counter from the location's earlier days as a luncheonette.

My husband Norman and I dined there on a Friday night after Labor Day. We were pleased to see plenty of people in the two dining rooms that seat approximately 130. I am glad when local businesses continue doing business after the summer.

One bi-level paneled room is long and narrow. The larger room, where we sat, has a warm, intimate feel to it despite its exposed pipes running throughout the length of the high open ceiling. One of the pumpkin-colored walls has a brick fa�ade. Several colorful fish swim alongside beautiful coral in an aquarium. Paintings of the Mediterranean region are scattered around the room.

There are also dozens of photos of dining customers on the walls that were taken this summer. I found myself scanning the pictures for familiar faces.

The tables are set with white linens and have beautiful chairs of cherry wood and lighter maple. Each table has its own olive oil and balsamic vinegar cruets. I thought that was great because so often they either do not have the balsamic, or when it is brought to the table, the server later has to take it to another table. Bruchetta was quickly served as a complimentary condiment.

Our server, Mark, was an extremely pleasant, accommodating young man who really aimed to please throughout the dinner. A student from Slovakia, he was at the end of his four-month student visa in America. I commend La Fontana and others for hiring such service-oriented young people during their busy season.

Mark recited several specials in detail, but I had to ask the prices of those I found interesting. I wish that all restaurants would make it a point to provide the prices if the specials are offered verbally.

Norman and I shared a Caprese Salad, a very large portion of eight tomato slices, four thick slices of mozzarella cheese and roasted red and yellow peppers, drizzled with olive oil and pesto. We also split the stuffed mushroom special appetizer. The six sizable mushrooms came with a tasty crabmeat stuffing that had virtually no fillers. The average appetizer is priced at $10.95.

As for entrees, La Fontana clearly focuses on pasta. The entree menu features 17 different pasta dishes. Poultry, veal, meats and fish each have three or four listings, but there are several specials. Dinners range from $16.95 to $28.95, and include either a side of pasta or potato and vegetable of the day.

Norman and I both chose dinner specials. He ordered the $19.95 gnocchi with scallops wrapped in bacon. I estimated at least 25 gnocchi that were bathed in a light blush sauce. The bacon gave the whole dish a subtle smoky flavor.

My tilapia francaise with artichoke hearts was very fresh, tasty and large for $25.95, but I was disappointed with the accompanying vegetables. Rather than pasta, I chose the grilled vegetables and roasted potatoes. Served on one small plate, the potatoes were actually boiled slices and the grilled zucchini, squash and carrots did not look or taste grilled.

The desserts looked wonderful. Norman ordered one cappuccino for $3.50 and a cappuccino gelato with chocolate sauce for $5.95. When alerted that the cappuccino was lukewarm, Mark insisted on replacing it rather than reheat the full cup he had just served. The refreshing large gelato ended a very pleasant dinner.

La Fontana Ristorante is located at 20 South Douglas Avenue, Margate. The phone number is 822-7460. Off-season dinner hours are Thursday through Monday from 4pm. Reservations are accepted. BYOB. Major credit cards accepted. Free street parking.