Atlantic City Weekly

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Philly Feast

Groovy tastes at The Sound of Philadelphia

By Sharon Harris-Zlotnick --> ENTERTAINING AND delicious, The Sound of Philadelphia (TSOP), is a restaurant and lounge at the Tropicana's Quarter complex. TSOP correctly bills itself as "sophisticated dining with soulful music." What a fun place to go for a good meal and first-rate entertainment by great musicians. TSOP is located opposite the numerous other restaurants that surround the main plaza.

TSOP is the joint venture of Philadelphia restaurateurs Robert and Benjamin Bynum Jr., whose other well-known dining and entertainment locations include Zanzibar Blue and Warmdaddy's. They teamed up with Philly music producing legends Kenny Gamble and Leon Huff to create an environment that both pleases the palate while offering familiar rhythm and blues and soulful sounds of the last 40 years.

My husband Norman and I dined there on Super Bowl eve, and were surprised that the restaurant was half full on Saturday night at 7:30pm. TSOP's two floors are decorated in a striking red and black. The smaller upstairs dining room overlooks the main dining area and the stage. The combined seating capacity is up to 250.

The comfortable booths that line the red walls have bright red textured cushions, and the tables and chairs are black. The narrow tables can become crowded with plates and glasses. A thick, red velvet curtain backs the stage.

The menu mixes southern and Caribbean cuisines, which the chefs hope reflect the history of the "Sound of Philadelphia." The appetizer and entrée menus each have 10 items, complete with descriptions of every dish. A special appetizer, entrée and dessert are also featured every night.

The extensive wine selection lists several by the glass. When Norman ordered one of the 18 special martinis and cocktails, Rashan, our very able server, recommended the $8.25 Peach Surrender instead, promising Norman would prefer it. We can't speak for the first choice, but Norman liked the Peach Surrender enough to order a second during the meal.

I don't care for spicy foods, and felt disappointed when Rashan advised they were out of the tuna Loin entrée, especially since it was early in the evening on a Saturday night. I changed direction and ordered a sampling of appetizers instead. It was a good decision because each of the three appetizers had an interesting flavor. Norman shared the appetizers and he ordered the rack of lamb platter.

The signature cheese steak spring rolls were filled with sliced steak, cheese and onions on a ketchup bed. The appetizer special, sliced tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and onions, drizzled with balsamic vinegar, had thick slices of cheese, but we both found the onions too strong. Rounding out our appetizer potpourri was the lump crabmeat cake over baby greens with a flavorful Creole salsa. Appetizers are priced from $6.95 to $13.95.

TSOP emphasizes tastes and presentation, and both were wonderful. Each dish left the kitchen presented so beautifully that we were reluctant to cut into the food. The meat was fresh, the tomatoes were ripe and the salsa was nicely spiced.

Norman's perfectly cooked rack of lamb was rare and tender. Three double chops surrounded mashed sweet potatoes. Entrees are priced from $18.95 to $29.95. A skillet cornbread, topped with honey butter, is included with all dinners. Corn kernels accentuate the sweet taste. Several side dishes, all $3, may be ordered a la carte.

Anyone who loves chocolate, cheesecake and nuts will find the desserts appealing. I was in heaven when I found a dish that combined one of my favorites — bread pudding — topped with ice cream and butterscotch sauce. Again, presentation was everything; the whipped cream, strawberries and blueberries were a delicious addition. All after-dinner coffees and cocktails are $7.50, as are the desserts.

I recommend some planning when reserving your table. TSOP features three one-hour sets of live music every night at 8, 9:30 and 11pm. It can be very noisy on both floors. While the band is playing, conversation is difficult. If you want to chat, either eat earlier or make your reservation during the breaks, when TSOP plays softer recorded music.

Also, ask to be seated to the left of the stage and small dance floor. We were to the right in the last booth, and the exit to the restrooms was directly behind us. People constantly walked by, and I expect it could be unpleasant on a crowded night.

That evening the entertaining five-man blues band played favorites from yesteryear, including Lionel Ritchie, Lou Rawls, Marvin Gaye and Otis Redding. Norman and I danced to the tunes of Smokey Robinson and the Miracles as we ended our fun evening at TSOP.

The Sound of Philadelphia is located on the third level, inside The Quarter at the Tropicana, 2801 Pacific Avenue, Atlantic City. The phone number is 887.2200. Dinner is served daily from 5pm to midnight. Reservations are recommended. There is a $10 cover charge after 10pm on weekends without dinner reservations. Smoking permitted at the bar. Parking in the Tropicana garage.