Resorts Regular

FOOD & DRINK

Capriccio may be the longest-tenured casino restaurant, but it has far from lost its touch

By Frank Gabriel

Add Comment | Comments: 1 | Posted Apr. 9, 2009

Capriccio offers exceptional service, ambiance and an impressive menu.

The first thing encountered traversing the long, ivory-white corridor leading to Resorts Casino Hotel's iconic Italian eatery Capriccio is a breathtaking panorama of the foamy, deep-green Atlantic Ocean.

Filling the eyes as the space widens, this ocean view is just the first in an array of sensory pleasures to be discovered.

Not surprisingly, Capriccio has the distinction of being the longest-tenured casino restaurant property, continuously operating since 1981.

Beyond the spectacular ambiance -- walls covered in fresco-like artwork, vaunted ceilings, arched doorways and the natural beauty of the water -- service and food both consistently exceed all expectations.

We began our meal with soup, Scarola Toscano, a lighter-than-expected puree of cannelloni beans. Blended within was plenty of crunchy, slightly bitter kale.

An evening's addition, arugula salad, was the essential representation of seasonal cuisine.

The tiny leaves of bright, peppery green were tossed with roasted red peppers, artichoke, kalamata olives, red onions and bleu cheese. Finished with strings of lemon zest and delicate vinaigrette, this springtime salad was indeed very special.

As is always our habit in superior Italian restaurants, we split an order of pasta as a middle course.

On this night, our selection was Rigatoni all'Amatriciana. Translated as "The Matriarch's rigatoni," it was ladled with a sophisticated tomato creation. A shiny, red velvet carpet for the tubular pasta, this sauce began its life with a sauté of pancetta and onions. Like my earlier soup, this struck lovely, smoky, resonant tones on the palate.

Finished simply with a chiffonade of verdant basil and a tableside grind of grated Parmigiano Reggiano, this bowl of steamy goodness required no further adornment.

On this April Friday night, we both opted for seafood-oriented main courses.

My dining partner went with pan-seared sea scallops, capasante in padella. Five fat, juicy discs, each nearly an inch in thickness, were ringed about a mound of creamy risotto. The starch was augmented by the addition of tiny, pencil-point asparagus and wild mushrooms, adding earthy aroma and textures to the thoughtful mix.

The seafood itself was adroitly prepared. A warm, amber exterior gave way to luscious, coolness within. This mid-rare temp relies on the natural oceanic taste of the scallop to deliver, and these were nothing less than the very finest available.

My choice, one of two grouper entrees -- delfino dalla Florida con spezie -- was a crisp, herb crusted, sizzling cut.

Rectangular in shape and without any visible flaws, the sizeable filet perched atop another take on risotto, this one a spicy Calabrese variant. The Floridian fish, among nature's most succulent, was topped by a blend of house-roasted tomatoes, yellow peppers and sweet garlic glaze.

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