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Allegretti’s Azure


The French Riveria chef offers creative and balanced seafood fare and more at new Revel restaurant.

By Frank Gabriel
Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 2 | Posted May. 2, 2012

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Scallop ceviche

Azure is defined as the color of the sky near water on a clear, cloudless day.


A pale, heavenly blue.


It is also the title of Nice, France-native chef Alain Allegretti’s Riviera-inspired, beachfronting restaurant at the beyond-spectacular Revel Resort in Atlantic City.


And what better way to commence a meal in a Frenchman’s restaurant than oysters?


On this evening, Azure offered East Coast varietal Wellfleet and another from Washington state. The Wellfleet’s were dense, meaty and creamy while their Pacific relatives, smaller but deeply cupped in shells, offered a smooth, salty hint of their briny home.


Our next choices were a pair of house signatures, Riviera lobster salad and Provencal fish soup.


The salad, neatly formed into a taut circle, began with large chunks of crustacean-claw and tail meat-atop. Below, a sturdy base of fingerling potatoes, haricots verts, roasted pepper, fennel and olive tapenade was fanned, each ingredient separated.


The lobster was well cooked, firm and cold, bearing no evidence of excess moisture. Provencal fish soup arrived as a deep brown bowl of broth. Served alongside were a pair of Gruyere-topped croutons. Heeding the chef’s recommendation, we first dunked those crostini in the aromatic soup to melt.


Rich and lustrous, this classic originated, as much great cooking has, from the poor — in this case, humble fishermen eager to utilize less-desirable elements of their daily catch.


Allegretti’s elegant take combines blue crab, cod and monkfish, all thoroughly pressed and strained until pleasantly smooth.


The flavor profiles were equally remarkable. Seafood oui, but not fishy.


While garlic remains an essential ingredient, its often harsh nature was blunted, rendering a mild, nearly sweet influence. One of the very finest foods we’ve sampled in 2012.


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Comments 1 - 2 of 2
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1. Sheryl Scheetz said... on May 27, 2012 at 07:03AM

“Terrible dining experience May 26 2012. My brother in law ordered the filet and it was sooooo overcooked and a very poor cut of beef. They said it could take up to 30 mins to get another but it did come out sooner. They also never brought him his peppercorn sauce he requested. It was a shame that by the time his food came, we were all finished our meals. Also the loud techno type music was very annoying. We had trouble having a conversation with each other or even hearing our server. All in all, a very disappointing experience.”

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2. Lynn said... on Jul 2, 2012 at 02:56PM

“Our dinning experience wasn't terrible but there were some real issues on this
Thursday night, May 28th. The food was fine, not great, but the service was terrible. It was at least 30 minutes between courses. Service people were running around like bees but nothing was getting to the tables. We were seated by the kitchen and witnessed at least two servers crying. The music was mind drilling and we had to lean into the deep table to hear each other talk. My husband's beef fillet was fine but my veal ragu was flat, lacking seasonings. At their prices they need to step it up.”

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