FOOD & DRINK > RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Fresh and Authentic Mexican


Tucked away in Somers Point, El Costeño is a new Mexican restaurant worth seeking out.


By Frank Gabriel

Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 1 | Posted Sep. 12, 2012

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Like El Costeño’s mind-blowing mole sauce. Served as a viscous, maroon-hued blend, it is loaded with diverse elements like plantains, apples, raisins, poblano peppers, Mexican chocolate and pumpkin seeds. Simmered two to three hours, this masterful production yields a flavor profile simultaneously activating all four primary tastes — sweet, salty, sour and bitter — to full effect.


It’s really one of the world’s most elevated sauces, right up there with the best of French, Italian and Asian cuisine.


The third leg of El Costeños’s management and ownership structure is financial backer Oliver Cisneros, a longtime friend.


Asked why he selected this location, Eulogio explains: “Because there weren’t any Mexican places in Somers Point.” 


Opened on May 28 of this year, the eatery seems to have gained a nice foothold already. One of the secrets of its sudden success is certainly the concept of small-batch cookery along with an emphasis on spontaneous cuisine.


“I don’t cook a lot [in advance],” Eulogio says,


By only prepping limited amounts of certain fairly popular items, like approximately 25 tamales daily, quality control is maintained. This way, he would rather sell out of an item when it is fresh and in ideal condition, than have anything left at the end of a night.


Toward that end, Villavicencio — born into a Mexican restaurant family — makes fresh tortillas in-house, each and every day. Together, they have created a diverse menu of standard favorites and unexpected specialties.


Like the steak El Costeño, buried in a surprising peanut sauce that offers moments of heat coupled with the natural sweetness of that popular legume. Even a common item like chiles rayenos de res gets special treatment here. Enormous poblanos are stuffed with a blend of ground beef, pork, apples, pears and nuts plus a “special cream” called nogada prior to being coated in light breading and roasted. Or a made-to-order, par-cooked seviche combining flounder, scallops, calamari and shrimp with lime and orange juices, cilantro, onion and hot sauce.


Animated and intense, Eulogio’s hands almost never stop moving during our hour-long interview, despite those scars. It seems somehow apropos that a guy who derives from a coastal town nearly 2,500 miles away — called “The Hidden Port” — should deliver a tiny, hidden gem like El Costeño to the Jersey shore.

 

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1. R. Wallace said... on Sep 12, 2012 at 06:49PM

“I LOVE THIS PLACE!!! Right across from Clancy's.”

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