One at Revel

FOOD & DRINK > RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Revel’s newly opened restaurant One stands out on many levels 

By Frank Gabriel 

Add Comment | Comments: 0 | Posted Aug. 8, 2012

Steak Salad

The first entity encountered by a visitor to the Revel complex exiting the parking facility is an elongated, arcing restaurant whose wall is emblazoned with “This is the place” in foot high text. 

Perhaps that’s why they chose to call it “One?” 

Although designed with chic, urbane sensibility, One is decidedly not a triumph of form over function. Our review meal supplied sophisticated, upscale New American, emphasizing grilled fare. 

At our server’s suggestion, we began with tuna tartare, an item we rarely order. 

So widespread on menus to have become commonplace, their version exceeded expectations. The fish, pink and firm, had clearly been handled by a skilled technician. 

Topped with an equally fresh dance partner, smooth avocado, elements were tactfully organized via ring mold. A trio of taro chips lounged topside, adding crunch. 

As pledged by our South Philly native waiter, it was soy emulsion, drizzled across the entire proceedings, which demonstrably elevated this offering. Possessing a complex flavor profile — bringing delightful salinity — this dressing was the color of dark honey, slightly sweet as well. 

Next up, a pair of Kobe sliders, larger than almost any mini burgers you’ll encounter. Finished with leaf lettuce, tomatoes, house made pickles, a tangy One sauce and truffled cheese, two of these would make a fine lunch. The meat was juicy, just fatty enough, served at a pleasant medium. And we fancied the sidecar of extra pickle slices and precious little gherkins provided too. 

One of our very favorites on this evening, edamame and wild mushroom agnolotti, was portioned with similar generosity. Rectangular ravioli had been filled with an Asian soybean and cheese blend. Beneath, we discovered hidden treasure — a foundation of fragrant creamy, funghi. 

Great thinking. Rather than blending ’shrooms with pasta, where they might cool and lose earthy aromas, these created an olfactory explosion as we dug in. 

We always aspire to dine seasonally, so a pair of salads followed. My dining partner’s heirloom tomato and grilled radicchio featured yellow, red, green and purple hues. We appreciated the inclusion of rich, lusty Cherokee Reds, their dank potency brilliant against softened radicchio, arugula and goat cheese — a mildly sweet sherry ginger dressing added sharp, direct tones. Maine lobster salad was an extravagant bowl of greens tossed with haricot verts. But when they say lobster salad here, the operative word remains lobster. 

Piled high with a plenty of precious claw and tail, the serving was fashionably accessorized at its corners with rolled prosciutto and darling little deviled quail’s eggs. Ingredients selected were nothing short of genius; prosciutto salty and chewy, slender tender green beans and scads of luscious, still warm lobster. 

And those dime-size quail eggs? Like nothing we’ve ever encountered, a mouthful of pure joy. Our only trifling issue? A bit more mustard-based dressing would have been highly beneficial. 

Page: 1 2 |Next