Inspired by visit to the authentic brasseries of France, Michael Patrick’s brings a touch of Europe to the Golden Nugget.
ATLANTIC CITY — Perhaps the most intriguing aspect about the ongoing renaissance created via Golden Nugget’s purchase of former Trump Marina is the inherent restaurant overhaul.
Virtually all of the existing food outlets were closed, signaling that a new management broom would indeed sweep clean. In their place, Golden Nugget’s parent company Landry’s — originally restaurateurs — have carefully and selectively launched outlets of their own existing brands, all while simultaneously giving the tired facility new décor, esprit de corps and seemingly, a new lease on life.
After a midsummer night’s dream of a meal at their signature dining room, the Chart House, we eagerly anticipated sampling Michael Patrick’s Brasserie.
The 24-hour operation is credited to Landry’s chairman/CEO Tilman Fertitta, according to the company’s Web site. Fertitta developed the concept of Michael Patrick’s while vacationing in Europe with family. As for the business name: “Michael Patrick’s is named for Fertitta’s two eldest sons, who especially enjoyed the charming brasseries of France.”
Appropriately bold, bright and lively, Michael Patrick’s sits just feet off a once-again lively casino floor. (As an aside, if you haven’t had the chance to visit Golden Nugget, you owe it to yourself to take a ride and check the place out.) Always in possession of one of the region’s most spacious, natural environs, the location now pulses with a sense of confidence, and even glamour.
We began with an item not on the regular menu, but instead posted on a tabletop addition list — pot stickers. These were five half-moon dumpings, smooth and perfectly cooked, with just a slight golden hue of caramelization. Their insides, a pork blend, were tasty and just a bit dry. This was easily remedied with a quick dip in the soy-based sauce provided in a ramekin.
From the other side of the globe, we also sampled a beef quesadilla. Sliced into four firm triangles, the crisp tortilla was stuffed with ground meat, cheddar cheese and bell peppers. A trio of condiments — guacamole, salsa and sour cream — rounded out the plate. We really liked the gentle touch given this now-ubiquitous menu item. Too many cooks ladle their flattops with excessive oil prior to griddling tortillas. This creates an oily, unpleasant taste and wimpy texture. No such problems here, the warm shell clung to its ingredients like a miniskirt on Scarlett Johansson — taut, sexy and seductive.
Next up was a dish we consider to be among the new American classics, Cobb salad. A wide, shallow bowl filled with shredded lettuces was topped by equal portions of diced bacon, chopped hardboiled egg, tomato, avocado, grilled chicken and bleu cheese. A gorgonzola dressing, applied with finesse, finished the pretty plate. Each element was arranged separately, piled neatly and obediently organized. In this manner, individual flavors remained distinct, even when combined on our forks.
Our entrées began with charbroiled New York strip steak. I opted for fries, rather than mashed spuds, to complete the French-style steak frites platter. The beef, grill-marked with a lovely cross-hatch pattern, demonstrated all the signs of a steady hand at the meat station. Accompanied by plenty of crisp hot shoestring fries and about a dozen strands of steamed asparagus, the strip steak looked quite content on its third of the plate.
But the undeniable star of this evening was my partner’s chicken pot pie. It arrived ceremoniously with a puffed-up dome of pastry, close to two inches in height.
Some of the qualities that allowed Tilman Fertitta to reach the apex of the business world, and transform Landry’s Restaurants Inc. into a conglomerate worth nearly $4 billion, he seems to carry around like a set of car keys.
Georges Perrier's unparalleled career as a chef in Philadelphia began in 1967, one year after Chris Scarduzio was born in that city's Overbrook section. Perrier's Le Bec-Fin, which has since gained n...
MIA, CHEF GEORGES PERRIER and Chris Scarduzio's newest dining entry, aims to "introduce Atlantic City to Philadelphia taste." The Mediterranean Italian bistro opened in December. Mia, named for Scard...
Perhaps the greatest joy in writing about food is finding worthy, little restaurants offering truly special cuisine and shining a bit of light upon them. Ma France Creperie, located in the heart of ...
Open quietly since Memorial Day weekend, FIN has ironed out any first-month jitters rather rapidly. Our recent meal, on a Wednesday night, was unquestionably the best experience we’ve had in a new restaurant anywhere in well over a year.
Ventnor’s new Salt Ayre restaurant marks a return of sorts for the well established LoBianco restaurant family. The storefront, located at 7309 Ventnor Ave. near the Margate border, was the site of Nick LoBianco’s original entry in the Jersey shore restaurant industry from 2003 until ’06.