Inspired by visit to the authentic brasseries of France, Michael Patrick’s brings a touch of Europe to the Golden Nugget.
New at the Golden Nugget Atlantic City
ATLANTIC CITY — Perhaps the most intriguing aspect about the ongoing renaissance created via Golden Nugget’s purchase of former Trump Marina is the inherent restaurant overhaul.
Virtually all of the existing food outlets were closed, signaling that a new management broom would indeed sweep clean. In their place, Golden Nugget’s parent company Landry’s — originally restaurateurs — have carefully and selectively launched outlets of their own existing brands, all while simultaneously giving the tired facility new décor, esprit de corps and seemingly, a new lease on life.
After a midsummer night’s dream of a meal at their signature dining room, the Chart House, we eagerly anticipated sampling Michael Patrick’s Brasserie.
The 24-hour operation is credited to Landry’s chairman/CEO Tilman Fertitta, according to the company’s Web site. Fertitta developed the concept of Michael Patrick’s while vacationing in Europe with family. As for the business name: “Michael Patrick’s is named for Fertitta’s two eldest sons, who especially enjoyed the charming brasseries of France.”
Appropriately bold, bright and lively, Michael Patrick’s sits just feet off a once-again lively casino floor. (As an aside, if you haven’t had the chance to visit Golden Nugget, you owe it to yourself to take a ride and check the place out.) Always in possession of one of the region’s most spacious, natural environs, the location now pulses with a sense of confidence, and even glamour.
We began with an item not on the regular menu, but instead posted on a tabletop addition list — pot stickers. These were five half-moon dumpings, smooth and perfectly cooked, with just a slight golden hue of caramelization. Their insides, a pork blend, were tasty and just a bit dry. This was easily remedied with a quick dip in the soy-based sauce provided in a ramekin.
From the other side of the globe, we also sampled a beef quesadilla. Sliced into four firm triangles, the crisp tortilla was stuffed with ground meat, cheddar cheese and bell peppers. A trio of condiments — guacamole, salsa and sour cream — rounded out the plate. We really liked the gentle touch given this now-ubiquitous menu item. Too many cooks ladle their flattops with excessive oil prior to griddling tortillas. This creates an oily, unpleasant taste and wimpy texture. No such problems here, the warm shell clung to its ingredients like a miniskirt on Scarlett Johansson — taut, sexy and seductive.
Next up was a dish we consider to be among the new American classics, Cobb salad. A wide, shallow bowl filled with shredded lettuces was topped by equal portions of diced bacon, chopped hardboiled egg, tomato, avocado, grilled chicken and bleu cheese. A gorgonzola dressing, applied with finesse, finished the pretty plate. Each element was arranged separately, piled neatly and obediently organized. In this manner, individual flavors remained distinct, even when combined on our forks.
Our entrées began with charbroiled New York strip steak. I opted for fries, rather than mashed spuds, to complete the French-style steak frites platter. The beef, grill-marked with a lovely cross-hatch pattern, demonstrated all the signs of a steady hand at the meat station. Accompanied by plenty of crisp hot shoestring fries and about a dozen strands of steamed asparagus, the strip steak looked quite content on its third of the plate.
But the undeniable star of this evening was my partner’s chicken pot pie. It arrived ceremoniously with a puffed-up dome of pastry, close to two inches in height.
Some of the qualities that allowed Tilman Fertitta to reach the apex of the business world, and transform Landry’s Restaurants Inc. into a conglomerate worth nearly $4 billion, he seems to carry around like a set of car keys.
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1. nancy pallotta said... on Jan 31, 2012 at 01:42PM
“Just stayed with hubby at nugget new rooms very nice. Ate early dinner late lunch at Michael Patrick soup n 1/2 sandwich. Good Decor very nice. we gambled and at 2am was a little hungry so went back there for something LIGHT maybe oatmeal or danish or bagels. Seemed all they had were bagels 2 women had ordered before and told us they were hard as a rock. The waiter agreed and said lets see how yours will come out. They were hard and the size of the rim of a small cup. One was a little soft so my hubby and I shared it. I know you are doing a lot of work but there are no good restaurants there except charthouse and vic n anthonys whch is closed sun n monday (when we went). You need a
VERY GOOD CHEF IN MICHAELS TO STAY 24/7 IF IT IS GOING TO BE OPEN 24/7 WE HAD OUR DINNER AT THE TAJ ATTHE PLATE IT WAS VERY GOOD.”
2. John Kruk said... on May 10, 2012 at 12:48AM
“5/09/12 at 11pm we sat down in Michael Patricks Retaurant in A/C. Took 15 minutes to get a drink order and 30 minutes to get a hamburger and wings. Waiter told us everyone went home in the kitchen. Food was good. When leaving the Restaurant to pay the bill, Hostess asked how everything was? Before we answered, she blew us off and held a laughing conversation with a nearby waiter. She did'nt care what we had to say. We will take the Chart House any day.”