You can't visit this new Harlem transplant without trying the waffles
The new Redding's at 1545 Pacific Ave., in Atlantic City.
It’s been a long time coming.
Chef Carl Redding has finally arrived in Atlantic City.
After nearly six months of endless construction, Redding’s Restaurant on Pacific Avenue opened its doors two weeks ago.
We visited last Saturday and found food worthy of the chef’s street-cred rep, combined with the understandable minor missteps typical of embryionic weeks in any new restaurant venture.
Start with the good stuff: Redding’s — famous for its unique southern cuisine — brings a ray of hope and promise to a long-blighted urban neighborhood. For that alone they deserve the highest praise.
Observed at dusk, the warm, wood-decorated interiors glow like a friendly lighthouse beacon down a dubious section of Pacific Avenue.
Staffers were enthusiastic and welcoming. Shortly after being seated we received a basket of soulful corn-bread muffins. Like a microcosm of Redding’s career, these were warm, substantial and just the right touch. (Also evidently, fresh made; a management representative informed us that the kitchen was busily baking batches just as we arrived.)
The lengthy menu had been pared down for the purposes of a smoother opening, which makes good business sense. Appetizers, soups and a few sides were unavailable. This only ensures we will return to sample them soon.
Once those difficulties were ironed out, our platters arrived with lightning speed.
First and foremost, you can’t visit Redding’s and not try the waffles.
They are both the initial items your eye encounters on their bill of fare and a signature speciality.
We went with the version named for Redding’s former employer, the Reverend Al Sharpton. We’ve been daydreaming about this classic combo of fried chicken and waffles since reporting on plans to open here early last spring.
Opting for poultry smothered in gravy, it arrived on a separate plate. The waffle itself was special enough, a heartier, savory variant of the typical breakfast treat. This worked wonders with the chicken, battered expertly and prepared with care. People who don’t understand great fry technique should sample Redding’s chicken to see just how elevated cooking via this ancient method can become in the right hands.
A similar preparation was evident in fish and chips, whiting accompanied by hand-cut steak fries. The fish was fresh and a bit salty, just the way we like it. Accompanied by two sides, she chose the grits — stone ground corn from Tallulah Point, Ga. — and sweet potato souffle.
The former were creamy but light, with a airy quality resembling fine cake. The latter was chunky, texturally pleasing, with layers of dark, intricate sweetness, which we’d guess resulted from the addition of molasses to the mix?
My selection was described as Kansas-style spare ribs. This generally means two things: dry-rubbed cooking and a sauce whose flavor profile tilts toward the sweet and smoky.
Redding’s ribs delivered on all those promises, although a couple of them would have benefitted from another hour or so of slow cookery. Either way they were huge and deviously delicious. The inevitable result was wearing a coating of their sticky sauce on my hands, face and clothing by meal’s end.
My sides, five green stew and mac and cheese, might have been the night’s biggest hits.
The greens, a blend of collard, turnip, cabbage, kale and mustard, were among the best we’ve ever encountered. Mac and cheese was baked golden, crusty, crunchy and not too heavy with cheese.
Three friends born and raised in Atlantic City have teamed up to present an event called the Comedy 4 Peace Laugh Out Loud Jam — a show not just designed to lift local spirits in tough times for an affordable cost, but to help revive the same sense of camaraderie in a community that their longstanding friendship may best reflect.
I've tasted IHop's new [chicken and waffles] dish and they're missing the key ingredient — soul! Eating chicken and waffles at IHOP is like eating a Philly cheesesteak in Montana. It's not even close." See photos and video...
As the late Atlantic City historian and former Club Harlem house band drummer Sid Trusty once said, "Every night was our party. And we invited the world." The party may be starting up again soon.
Plus new DrewToonz cartoon, Sean Rowe and his Anti- label debut 'Magic,' and jazz series to debut at Redding's restaurant in Atlantic City in February.
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1. Anonymous said... on Sep 30, 2010 at 08:36AM
“I waited for months for this place to open. Went last week. I know had been open for only a frew days but what a nightmare. The front of the house is run like a three ring circus. Our server nor managemnet had a clue. Very limited menu. On to the food. Mac and cheese was spongy and the worst I ever had. The greens were totally tasteless and had zero flavor. Chopped barbecue pork mediocre. Smothered turkey wings had no flavor. Top it off with a hair in my fried chicken and waffles. No one came and apologized. They even tried to charge me for it and i had to ask twice to have it removed form my bill. Saw the "manager" on the way out and he was clueless too. At least they are consistent. I wish this place luck!”
2. Anonymous said... on Oct 3, 2010 at 11:07PM
“liar, liar, pants on fire! What restaurant were you at? I had the greens, mac & cheese today and they were unbelievable. The 5 green stew was sooo tasty along with the mac & cheese. Very cheesy and tender was the honey dipped fried chicken. I will go back for breakfast. What did your lying ass think a soft opening was. Its to get ALL the kinks out, HATER!!!
Good Luck Redding's! My family will continue to support you!”
3. Anonymous said... on Oct 7, 2010 at 02:56PM
“I went to this restaurant the other day. I thought it was good. it was a bit pricey but the food was tasty. I ordered fried chicken though I think I got smothered chicken. it was very good whatever it was. I also had the 5 green stew. It was very good and the sweet potatoes. Also very good. Not large portions. Overall not bad.”
4. Anonymous said... on Oct 17, 2010 at 10:11PM
“I went twice already to the restaurant. The food is consistently great and flavorful .The catfish was good and crispy and reminded of my mother'cooking from Mobile. The portions were big and I left with a doggy bag. Am looking forward to the opening of the bar ! Good luck Redding.
I will return !!!”
5. Anonymous said... on Mar 13, 2011 at 04:45PM
“I went to Redding's last week and I apprehensive before I went in. It was a Friday night and the place was basically empty. Less than 10 couples were there. For a Friday night, I found that very odd! We sat near the bar which had college sports playing but a very god selection of modern R&B music played throughout the building We ordered the slider appetizer and tea/lemonade mix to start...well the tea tasted like they used 5l lbs of sugar and the sliders were dry and bland. For the main course I had chicken n waffles....well the waffle was ok but very heavy and filling. The chicken was over cooked and had no flavor. Who ever does the cooking there should be fired. If the owner wants this restaurant to survive, he needs a total overhaul of the entire service and menu he is offering. I would not recommend this restaurant to anyone. Although we were not satisfied with the food, our server was very nice. I don't see this restaurant lasting a year”
6. crystal is (philly) said... on May 5, 2011 at 02:10PM
“on April 31, 2011 myself and a Delta sister attended the keisha coles show in Atlantic City... we did go after the show to Reddings. the atmosphere was dead for a Saturday Night the manager was very nice we decided because he was so nice to come back the next day for breakfast instead. As promised to the manager we came back Sunday morning it was packed I ordered chicken and waffles my delta sister ordered fish and grits. I was embrassed when her fish came out not done , you could still taste the flour. we sent the order back and again the fish came out not done we silently called the manager over and told him this was the second time she sent her fried whiting fish back. The manager didn't ask would she like to try something else he took the fish back again and brought her another order of unseasoned under cooked fish. The manager never offered a refund this will not be a place we go to when coming to AC... (PHILLY)ppl”
7. Anonymous said... on Jul 20, 2011 at 06:11PM
“The food was Junk I was better off going to McDonald an I don't eat that will never go back who ever said there food is good must work for them we all know how that go need them good comments lol wow southern food really came up from bmore to party had a ball until I went there .Oh the service sucks toooooooo!”
8. finediner said... on Jan 25, 2012 at 12:12PM
“always willing to give minority business a try, party of 8 went 2 days lastweek, food was ok not hot enough, had to be reheated no problem asked owner if one of my party members could sample a dish he was saying was awesome. he refused, granted we had eatn there 2 days, will take my $400.00 dollars somewhere else. also instructed our delegation of 100 people to eat somewhere else, a small sample cost you 100 people owner should cater to good diners cheapskate lost a good party learn how to do business or you wont be there long.”
9. Akito Hyama said... on Sep 12, 2012 at 07:54PM
“I never ate at Redding's. Anybody who would put up such a fancy structure in the middle of a drug ghetto can't be smart enough to run a restaurant with any measurable degree of proficiency. I placed a very hefty wager that Redding's will close within two years of its grand opening, despite all the pomp and fanfare. I certainly won the wager and will now spend this easy money at Red Robin.”