Atlantic City Weekly

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SOMERS POINT — During the weeks between Memorial Day and the mid-to-late June close of the school year, many Jersey shore restaurants experience a brief lull in the level of their business.


With a few exceptions.


We were quickly reminded that Somers Point’s Crab Trap is perhaps the region’s most significant one during a recent weeknight visit. Walking in just prior to 7pm — pretty much prime dinnertime — we were unexpectedly ushered to the bar for a brief sit.


Keep in mind, this venerable facility, presently in its 44th year, is also huge. Their Web site boasts of seating for 400 patrons, which makes our 15-or-so-minute wait all the more impressive.


Once delivered to a cozy corner in the first of their multiple spaces, we took note of surprising diversity in the Crab Trap’s customer base. Families, several large ones with lots of younger diners, shared the spacious room. Along with them, lots of couples, plus a smattering of four-tops, filled up every remaining table.


The pace here is brisk but extremely professional, as befits a place that routinely puts up dinner numbers in the thousands. Our first taste of food was in the form of an apparently house-made horseradish with traditional Jersey shore oyster crackers, plus a basket of various breads. This root vegetable creation, heartier than bottled products, featured a shockingly hot, wasabi-like flavor profile. Great stuff, but those with timid palates should proceed with care.


In true seafood-house fashion, the menu is extensive, with special emphasis given to the ocean’s wide bounty. Raw, steamed, broiled, fried or sauteed, if it’s aquatic in origin, you’re likely to find it here.


We chose one very traditional starter and another more far afield. Crab bisque soup, thick and sweet with creamy crustacean, was filling enough to practically become a meal in itself. This complex preparation showed all the signs of a long, slow cooking process, with hints of shallot, wine and butter all making their presences felt.


My choice, a stuffed onion ring, begged explanation from our server. She allowed that the thick-cut oval is fried, then filled with a blend of crab imperial, jack cheese and tomato. Once delivered, we couldn’t help but marvel at the concept. The onion became a sort of bowl, holding together a tasty, flawless crab meat mix.


Most versions of this Baltimore classic prove too heavy-handed for our taste, allowing mayo and egg ingredients to dominate subtle crab. Here, big chunks of pure white meat took top billing. Even better, the onion ring’s texture remained crisp, telling us that the kitchen was moving out food at a rapid pace.