The owners of Dock’s Oyster House and the Knife & Fork bring the same quality in a more relaxed atmosphere to the Dennis Courtyard at Bally’s.
The grand opening in early July, 2011.
ATLANTIC CITY — In a summer that’s seen restaurant openings aplenty in and around Atlantic City, one seems to have captured the spotlight and public attention like no other.
That would be the latest enterprise from the renowned Dougherty family, Harry’s Oyster Bar and Seafood at Bally’s Hotel Casino, situated in a ground-level space previously utilized for that facility’s buffet.
Harry’s has quickly carved out a niche for itself in an intensely competitive marketplace. Which makes sense considering the planning and thought — 18 months worth according to co-owner Maureen Shay — which Atlantic City’s first family of restauranteurs put into creating their latest venture.
Having spent more than 100 years as the only operators Atlantic Avenue’s Dock’s Oyster House has ever known plus almost 10 rehabbing and reenergizing the city’s landmark restaurant, The Knife & Fork Inn, the Dougherty’s clearly know a little bit about what they’re doing.
At Harry’s, it really shows.
This starts with the space itself, wide, wood-toned and facing the Dennis Courtyard, one of Atlantic City’s most beautiful pieces of open real estate. It continues with a jaw-dropping central raw bar. Piled high with ice, this cool conglomeration of oysters, clams, shrimp and lobster was a welcome respite from the nearly triple-digit heat gripping our region on the night we supped.
Our meal began respectfully, with a half dozen bivalves, selected by their knowledgeable shuckers. They failed to disappoint, delivering two Malpeques from Prince Edward Island along with two Wiannos from Massachusetts and a pair of Chesepeakes from Maryland. Each variety was slightly different, some long and flat, others small and deep. Their common denominators were incredible freshness combined with flawless removal technique on the part of raw bar personnel.
Ever taken the time to watch a real pro shucker ply their trade? It’s almost astonishing, the sheer speed and efficiency of motion, especially considering how very dangerous this task can be. Our other starter, pulled pork sliders, wouldn’t be something you’d expect at a place with the name “Oyster Bar” in its title. But that’s part of the charm here, scads of variety. These juicy delights more closely resembled small pulled pork sandwiches rather than two-bite sliders. Topped with crispy fried onions, the piled-high pig was clearly the product of long, loving slow cookery. This produced meat truly fall-apart tender and loaded with plenty of sweet and smoky nuances.
Next up we sampled a pair of salads: timeless Nicoise and an Asian-themed honey soy. The former brought traditional accoutrement: sliced cherry tomatoes, cubed red potatoes, pitted black olives, green beans and a halved, hard-boiled egg. Arranged atop a bed of lime green butter lettuce, it’s soft, round leaves provided natural cups for the vibrant elements.
Centered on the wide plate, five chunky squares of ahi tuna, barely seared and properly cooled, performed their leading role admirably. My dining partners mix of shredded radicchio and cabbage, plus whole leaves of spinach, was accompanied by a ring of sweet Mandarin oranges at the plate’s edge.
Crunchy rice paper, strewn throughout, as well as a tangy, ginger-infused dressing made this item as memorable as it was generously portioned.
A few more facts you should know about Harry’s.
First of all, the atmosphere is wonderfully Jersey shore casual. Oyster crackers served in metal tubs with horseradish. Bar mops replace napkins — pure bloody genius. But make no mistake about it: this is no self-conscious homage, it’s the real deal. Second, Harry’s is a fun, boisterous, sometimes loud environment. Ideally suited for families, even those with very small children.
This all makes sense from a strategic point-of-view. This place nicely fills a void that the Dougherty’s other restaurants, each a bit more formal in style, do not. Third, about the menu; patrons here select from classic seafood fare, lighter stuff like fried calamari, wings and shrimp, various clams and nachos (psst, try ‘em loaded with pulled pork) plus seven salads, 10 sandwiches and of course, that sprawling raw bar.
If you can’t find something you like here, we feel sorry for you.
Listen to two tracks from the Texas singer-guitarist's new EP Bright Lights and see videos — and read about the man who will be in town for the music main dish of the 2011 AC Food & Wine Festival.
Do you hear that rumbling rolling in from out in the distance? No, it’s not the accompanying thunder from a series of midsummer thunderstorms. What you’re noticing, should you listen carefully, is the sound of the biggest food weekend on the calendar around these parts.
Atlantic City has been blessed with an influx of new quality restaurants the last several months. Atlantic Grill has now joined the party as an excellent addition for the ever-expanding local dining scene, featuring elegant décor, a showcase bar area in the middle of the space and a gorgeous view of the beach and ocean.
These aren’t just the standard seasonal open-now-and-close after Labor Day types, either. The vast majority of these eateries will be serious, year-round operators.
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1. Liz said... on Jul 28, 2011 at 11:17AM
“Best new restaurant on the boardwalk by far...........
The restaurant itself is gorgeous & new, the outdoor dining area is large & comfortable for when the weather is right, the service was above & beyond. The food...never had raw oysters & they were delicious. My fish tacos were a little too blackened for my taste but there are soooo many great items on this menu.”