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Wildwood’s North End


The North End American Grill joins Avalon’s Concord Café and Marie Nicole’s in Wildwood Crest as the Barnebei family’s third Cape May County establishment.

By Frank Gabriel 

Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 0 | Posted May. 30, 2012

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Pulled Pork Nachos

There is a scary, sobering 
statistic about the restaurant industry, which should give pause to anyone considering an eatery. Eight out of 10 businesses fail within five years.


For that reason, owners successful and prosperous enough in their first venture to expand with additional food outlets are indeed incredibly rare, which truly makes the story of Cape May County’s Barnebei family unique. As of last summer, they added a third location, North End American Grill, to their portfolio. Their initial restaurant entry, Avalon’s Concord Café, opened in 1989.


Founder Jim describes it as “starting simple; hot dogs, roast beef sandwiches” and other standard bar-type grub.


This makes sense. Prior to that his family had owned Wildwood’s Cork and Bottle liquor store, at Burke and Atlantic Avenues. In nearly two and half intervening decades, the Concord — at 7800 Dune Drive — has become one of that ritzy island community’s preferred spots for casual meals.


With a menu that has grown to include a voluminous array of apps, hoagies, grinders, burgers, pizza, steak sandwiches — beef or chicken varieties — plus pasta dinners served in the evening after 5pm, the Concord serves as a classic Jersey shore family hangout.


Responsible for running the kitchen here is Jim’s wife Nancy, for whom the signature chicken sandwich — with sautéed spinach, tomato and provolone —takes its name. Desirous of expanding into Cape May County’s then burgeoning upscale market, the Barnebeis opened stylish Marie Nicole’s in Wildwood Crest at the turn of the century.


This was quite a step up, really several steps, from the bill of fare at the Concord.


Marie Nicole’s, in fact, quickly became considered one of the very best restaurants at the shore. Accurately channeling local products with skillful technique, their cuisine soon rivaled any available in dining Mecca Cape May. One respected local food critic went so far as to label it a “small jewel,” adding that their cuisine was responsible for creating “a culinary afterglow.”


These days, starters like a lobster quesadilla or shrimp wontons with ginger-blackberry sauce help keep that sterling reputation intact. 


Entrees include gourmet delights grilled swordfish with roasted pepper risotto and grilled eggplant caponata, herb and horseradish crusted rack of lamb alongside sautéed mushrooms/spinach with wasabi mashed potatoes or pork tenderloin with dried fig and cranberry cous-cous and a warm raisin/apple chutney.


This brings us to present day.


Taking over management of a distressed property, the Barnebeis slowly began altering a failed dynamic. Renaming the venue North End American Grill, they soon recognized that it would need until the following summer to fully complete their revitalization. Friday, June 1, will mark a milestone for them, with an invite-only Grand Opening event scheduled for 5-7pm. 


North End’s menu, while probably closer conceptually to the Concord’s casual fare, stretches to provide higher-end elements too. Like a tequila marinated fish taco starter, two flour tortillas filled with chopped tomato, onion and avocado with an apple ginger slaw. Or an entrée of bacon-wrapped filet with garlic mash and grilled asparagus.


But there’s still plenty of stuff that fits nicely into the beachy facility’s newfound zeitgeist. Particularly so, an array of carefully crafted sandwiches.


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