) Burgers, Take a Bow!
 | Restaurant Reviews | Food & Drink | Atlantic City Weekly


Burgers, Take a Bow!

Broadway Burger, one of The Quarter at Tropicana’s newest residents, lets you to build the ultimate, All-American sandwich.

By Frank Gabriel
Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 0 | Posted Jan. 22, 2014

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As part of Tropicana Resort’s recent Beer Week, new resident Broadway Burger Bar presented a brew-oriented dinner on Thursday, Jan. 16. Specifically, IPAs — India Pale Ales — were featured, a beverage of some historical import. 

We began with a house signature item, Bavarian pretzel. Normally served with a trio of dips, it was accompanied on this prix-fixe menu by a deep pool of excellent cheddar/ale sauce. Presented hanging from a vertical device best described as a food coat rack, Philly’s favorite foodstuff was warm, puffy and plentiful. The molten cheese sauce, intense from the herbal nature of ale, never congealed during the time it took to finish the app.

Pulled pork sliders brought a trio of overstuffed mini brioche rolls. Tumbling from their insides was tender, mildly spicy pig, properly cooked until rendered of all residual fat. The result was some of the very best pulled pork we’ve had regionally, rivaling the authentic creations of places like seasonal roadside gems Uncle Dewey’s in Mizpah or Somers Point’s Back Bay BBQ.

Cobb, which of late has become our barometer for well-made bowls of salad, delivered a crunchy conglomeration of shredded iceberg, chopped bacon, diced tomato, cubed cucumber and avocado, hardboiled egg bits and shredded chicken, blended with potent bleu cheese dressing.

Split tableside for us — a little nicety often lost on modern dining — by our well-trained waiter, the ingredients were bright and fresh, a pleasant reminder of warm weather on a frigid January evening.

Broadway’s design itself is airy and charming; separate sections for formal seating and a swanky bar plus a pair of round, communal tables suitable for larger groups, one facing out on The Quarter (in the location that had been Red Square). Our dining partner opted for pecan-crusted salmon with mashed potatoes and sautéed spinach. 

The rectangular fillet was angled atop a mound of creamy potatoes, gently wilted greens alongside. Plenty of fat, sweet nuts finished the presentation, candy-like and clinging to the vibrant orange fish. Both the quality of the initial product and its admirable preparation bear witness that the kitchen here is capable of much more than just casual fare.

Other entrée choices include center-cut filet, roasted chicken, pork tenderloin and braised short ribs. Despite this, our main event on this evening was clearly my prime burger accompanied by goat cheese and caramelized onions. The burger itself was glorious. Two-and-half-fingers thick, juicy and pink— as ordered —topped with warm, melting chevre and sweet red onions.

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